Miniature Loop Alarm

A few months ago, I decided to build a compact, yet effective alarm. My demands were:- simple construction, reliable operation, very small power consumption, and, most of all, small size. I started with CMOS logic gates, but was soon forced to abandon the concept after a few unsuccessful (and far too complicated) attempts. Then I suddenly realized that a simple transistor switch might do the job and I was right.

As you can clearly see from the schematics, the circuit is utterly primitive and consists of two identical transistor switches. Each has its own alarm LED and they're coupled to a neat 82dB buzzer. The two 1N4148 diodes are used to prevent a signal from one sensor from triggering both LEDs. The sensors used are either wire loops or normally closed reed switches or even a combination of both. You could, for example, tie a wire loop to your suitcase and place a reed switch to the door of your hotel room.

Since this little alarm is intended to be kept in arms reach at all times, there aren't any provisions for automatic shutdown after a certain period of time. The buzzer will sound until you turn the whole circuit off or connect the wire loop back to the jumpers. The same goes for the two LEDs, each indicating its own zone.

Construction is not critical and there aren't any traps for the novice. The two 100n capacitors aren't really necessary, I just included them to make sure that there is no noise interference coming from the long wire loops. For transistors, you can use any NPN general-purpose audio amplifiers/switches (BC 107/108/109, BC 237/238, 2N2222, 2N3904...). Assemble the circuit on perf board. Together with the buzzer and a 9V battery, it should easily fit in a pocket-sized plastic box smaller than a pack of cigarettes. A fresh battery should suffice for weeks of continuous operation.

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2W Audio Amplifier using BD139 and BD140 transistors

A 2 Watt audio amplifier made from discrete components.

Notes

This was one of the earliest circuits that I ever designed and built, in Spring 1982. At that time I had only an analogue meter and a calculator to work with. Although not perfect, this amplifier does have a wide frequency response, low harmonic distortion about 3%, and is capable of driving an 8 ohm speaker to output levels of around 5 watts with slightly higher distortion. Any power supply in the range 12 to 18 Volts DC may be used. 

Circuit
The amplifier operates in Class AB mode; the single 470R preset resistor, PR1 controls the quiescent current flowing through the BD139/140 complimentary output transistors. Adjustment here, is a trade-off between low distortion and low quiescent current. Typically, under quiescent conditions, current is about 15 mA rising to 150 mA with a 50 mV input signal. The frequency response is shown below and is flat from 20Hz to 100kHz:

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Inertia sensor

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Modular Burglar Alarm

This circuit features automatic Exit and Entry delays and a timed Bell Cut-off. It has provision for both normally-closed and normally-open contacts, and a 24-hour Personal Attack/Tamper zone. It is connected permanently to the 12-volt supply and its operation is "enabled" by opening SW1. By using the expansion modules, you can add as many zones as you require; some or all of which may be the inertia (shock) sensor type. All the green LEDs should be lighting before you open SW1. You then have up to about a minute to leave the building. As you do so, the Buzzer will sound. It should stop sounding when you shut the door behind you. This indicates that the Exit/Entry loop has been successfully restored within the time allowed.

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When you re-enter the building you have up to about a minute to move SW1 to the off position. If SW1 is not switched off in time, the relay will energise and sound the main bell. It will ring for up to about 40 minutes. But it can be turned off at any time by SW1. The "Instant" zone has no Entry Delay. If you don't want to use N/O switches, leave out R8, C8 and Q2; and fit a link between Led 3 and C7. The 24 Hour PA/Tamper protection is provided by the SCR/Thyristor. If any of the switches in the N/C loop is opened, R11 will trigger the SCR and the bell will ring. In this case the bell has no time limit. Once the loop is closed again, the SCR may be reset by pressing SW2 and temporarily interrupting the current flow. The basic circuit will be satisfactory in many situations.

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However, it's much easier to find a fault when the alarm is divided into zones and the control panel can remember which zone has caused the activation. The expansion modules are designed to do this. Although they will work with the existing instant zone, they are intended to replace it. When a zone is activated, its red LED will light and remain lit until the reset button is pressed. All the modules can share a single reset button. 

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Sun - Up Alarm

The Sun - Up Alarm can be used to provide a audible alarm for when the sun comes up or it can be used in a dark area and detect when a light comes on. It can also be used to detect a light beam, headlights etc. The circuit works as follows. The phototransistor is very sensitive to light. (Any phototransistor will work fine) The sun shining on this device will provide a high to one of the NAND gates. This will cause another NAND gate to oscillate which will drive another gate to output a 100hz tone. The transistor provides drive for the speaker.

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LASER Power Supply

If you have ever worked with lasers, you know how fun and interesting it can be, you also know how expensive it can be. The high voltage power supplies for the laser tubes are often more expensive then the tubes themselves. This supply can be built with commmon parts, most of which you probably already have in your junk box. The secret is the transformer used. It is a common 9V 1A unit, connected backwards for step up.

Parts



R1(1)10 Ohm 10W Or Greater Resistor
R2(1)Ballast Resistor, See "Notes"
D1, D2, D3(3)1N4007 Silicon Diode
C1, C2, C3(3)0.1 uF 2000V Capacitor
T1(1)9V 1A Transformer
S1(1)115V 2A SPST Switch
MISC(1)Case, Wire, Binding Posts (for output), Line Cord


Notes

1. T1 is an ordinary 9V 1A transformer connected backwards for step up.
2. R1 MUST be installed on a LARGE heatsink. A good heatsink is the metal case the supply is built in.
3. R2 Protects the laser tube from excess current. It should be soldered directly to the anode terminal on the tube. To find R2, start with a 500K 10W resistor and work down until the tube lights and remains stable.
4. If you have trouble with the tube not starting easily, use a longer anode lead that is wrapped around the tube.
5. Depending on the transformer you use, the circuit may or may not work. I cannot guarantee the operation of this circuit. Build at your own risk. Some transformers contain very few secondary windings which will quickly saturate the core and basically act like a direct short. The more secondary windings (that is, primary in this circuit) the better.

Car Battery Charger circuit fast

This charger will quickly and easily charge most any lead acid battery. The charger delivers full current until the current drawn by the battery falls to 150 mA. At this time, a lower voltage is applied to finish off and keep from over charging. When the battery is fully charged, the circuit switches off and lights a LED, telling you that the cycle has finished.

Parts

R1 1 500 Ohm 1/4 W Resistor
R2 1 3K 1/4 W Resistor
R3 1 1K 1/4 W Resistor
R4 1 15 Ohm 1/4 W Resistor
R5 1 230 Ohm 1/4 W Resistor
R6 1 15K 1/4 W Resistor
R7 1 0.2 Ohm 10 W Resistor
C1 1 0.1uF 25V Ceramic Capacitor
C2 1 1uF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
C3 1 1000pF 25V Ceramic Capacitor
D1 1 1N457 Diode
Q1 1 2N2905 PNP Transistor
U1 1 LM350 Regulator
U2 1 LM301A Op Amp
S1 1 Normally Open Push Button Switch
MISC 1 Wire, Board, Heatsink For U1, Case, Binding Posts or Alligator Clips For Output


Notes

1. The circuit was meant to be powered by a power supply, which is why there is no transformer, rectifier, or filter capacitors on the schematic. There is no reason why you cannot add these.
2. A heatsink will be needed for U1.
3. To use the circuit, hook it up to a power supply/plug it in. Then, connect the battery to be charged to the output terminals. All you have to do now is push S1 (the "Start" switch), and wait for the circuit to finish.
4. If you want to use the charger without having to provide an external power supply, use the following circuit.

2nd circuit (power supply)

Parts

C1 1 6800uF 25V Electrolytic Capcitor

T1 1 3A 15V Transformer

BR1 1 5A 50V Bridge Rectifier 10A 50V Bridge Rectifier

S1 1 5A SPST Switch

F1 1 4A 250V Fuse

1. The first time you use the circuit, you should check up on it every once and a while to make sure that it is working properly and the battery is not being over charged.

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